British Shirt Making | Shirts Made in England by Paul Brown
A British Shirt Company | Introduction
I launched Wolf in Sheep’s Clothing By Paul Brown in 2009 straight out of Durham university after studying economics. I had initially planned a career in banking but after a short course in Switzerland during my studies I realised it wasn’t for me and decided to follow my interest in menswear fashion.
I decided to focus initially on men’s shirts and launched my first capsule collection in September 2010 consisting of just six men’s shirt designed and cut by myself and manufactured in Italy. The shirts were all stripes with white contrast in the inside collar and cuffs and coloured ribbon. The fabrics were a blend of luxury 100% cotton poplin and oxford weaves.
Trying to build and expand a collection when you have to forecast styles months in advance while also meeting the high MOQ
put in place by the manufacturer are major issues for small British fashion brands and it was a common issue that was not sustainable long term.
Shirts Made in England
Initially I looked at having our shirts made by London shirt makers but there so few British shirt makers left and I would still has the issue with flexibility and MOQs.
As a result I decided to take the bold and brave decision in 2013 and open my own manufacturing unit in Suffolk, England. I felt it was the only way to take complete control of production and offer the flexibility needed to expand and cope with the modern challenges facing the British fashion industry.
I had experience of using an industrial sewing machine and initially made the first shirts myself from start to finish. I could now manufacture smaller quantities of each shirt and test the market to see which designs were more popular and then make more. I would no longer be left with excess stock in a shirt for whatever reason didn’t sell as well as hoped.
The new set up was a game changer and I quickly expanded not only the shirt offering but also men’s luxury boxer shorts and ladies tailored shirts and ruffled blouses.
A British Shirt that could compete with the best Jermyn Street Shirts
It was important from the start that our shirts could compete with the best Jermyn Street shirt makers that many observers regard as the benchmark of a good quality tailored shirt. To achieve this we worked on a number of key a number of criteria.
First Class shirting fabric
Any good British men’s shirt starts with the cloth and we always used only the finest shirting clothing from European mills including Monti in Northern Italy, Sotkas in Turkey and Brisbane Moss in England.
Materials
Like the best Jermyn Street London shirts it is not just about the quality of the cloth but also the materials that are used to construct it.
This includes the sewn in interfacing we use for the collar and cuffs that adds essential structure and support.
We use two distinct weights depending on the type and formality of the shirt. For example for a double cuff or formal shirt the heavier
weight is used that offers excellent rigidity for cuff links and a tie. For mens corduroy shirt, mens linen shirts and button down collars
we normally use the lighter weight that still provides structure but is softer and therefore more casual .
All our interfacing is sourced from DHJ in France who are recognised as the best in their class.
While using a sewn in interfacing for the collar and cuffs is traditional for British shirt making it is now very rare due to the cost of the interfacing plus the additional time to manufacture. The cheaper
option is using a fusible interfacing which is glued to the cloth. While fusing technology has certainly improved over the years,
it is still common for it to come unstuck leading to a terrible bobble effect. You will find this cheaper alternative
on not just mass produced shirts but regrettably many Jermyn Street Shirts.
In additional to the interfacing the quality of thread should never be underestimated as this is what holds the shirt together
and will determine its longevity. We use Coats & Gutermann thread from Germany which like DHJ are both recognised for supplying the finest industrial grade threads.
Last but not least buttons are an important part to any luxury Jermyn Street shirt and we use a combination of traditional white buttons produced by
Italian button maker Maribert along with corozo buttons from the last British button maker – Courtney & Co.
Best of British manufacturing
SHOP | Blue Grosvenor Shirt
SHOP | Navy Linen Shirt
We also offer button down collar Oxford shirt and double cuff
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Like all our British made clothing which now includes trousers & chinos, polo shirts and ladies trench coats, the quality of the manufacturing is just as important as the fabrics and materials. We use the best industrial machines coupled with first class tailors and seamstresses who have an eye for detail and producing the highest quality British made clothing.
We have been producing luxury 100% cotton men’s shirts made in UK since 2013 and over the
last seven years continue to refine and enhance our production techniques to bring the highest quality men’s
shirt to the market.
Our new casual shirt collection is all single needle stitched throughout for the best possible finish complete with French side seams.
British Style Shirt | Fit
Last but not least fit is equally important and our men’s shirt block has evolved over the last decade to accommodate changes in both men’s shape and lifestyle. Our shirts are semi-fitted which means they are not a classic cut i.e. a loose generous cut; but also not a slim fit that is often too tight for the wearer and offers limited manoeuvrability. Our British shirts find a happy medium and over the years we have established an excellent international customer base which includes the US, Europe and Australia.
Washing and ironing instructions for men’s shirts
We recommend washing our shirts at 30 degrees and ironing the inside of the shirt on medium heat. Do not tumble dry and for best results hang the shirts straight out from the washing machine.
Where to buy | British Shirts Online
Like Jermyn street shirts online, all our shirts and UK made clothing can be bought on our website.
Traditional England Clothing
All our products have a strong focus on England traditional clothing and the history of tailoring.
Our new create your own
British made trousers available in denim, moleskin, corduroy and traditional twill offer men the opportunity to choose from three distinct
builds and a wide range of waist and inside leg options.
